mandag 28. april 2014

Microaggressions - The New Every Day Discrimination

"My friend, I'll give you a hug!" - Creepy boda driver today, as I passed by gaze down, trying to ignore whatever his friends were calling after me.

The video that started it all...

When most people think of racism or sexism, they think of the conventional form of it, be it equal rights or derogatory statements regarding one's gender or skin color. But discrimination does not have to be all that explicit, as a matter of fact, discrimination (and now I'm speaking on my own behalf, so don't quote me on it) can be more subtle, and actually happens more often than you would like to think, probably even among your circle of friends.

This incredibly sexist vintage ad is a perfect example of a microaggression

Okay so let's back up a bit, if you haven't heard, 'microaggression' is the new word of the year, succeeding last year's 'selfie'. This the Times article sums it up pretty well: "Microaggressions... are quiet, often unintended slights — racist or sexist — that make a person feel underestimated on the basis of their color or gender". And the worst part of it is that most of us, both the aggressor and the victim, often are unaware of it and the destructive effects it has, as these microaggressions - as the name suggests - are often implicit, and find their way into every day conversation, making us more or less used to them.

 
Seriously, what is this??
So anyways, let me tell you a story, kids (imagine Ted's grown up voice saying this). First of all, re-wind 6 months, to October 2013, date unspecified...

"Okay, so, have you ever experienced anything racist?"

Truth be told, I was a bit taken aback by this question. Anything racist? Like what? I really didn't have any examples, so my reply was the following:  

"Um, no not really, I mean, luckily for me I'm Caucasian, so I've never been discriminated against based on my skin color..." 

There was silence on the other end, before the interviewer duly noted something and said:

"Hm, okay".

With the fear of making a 'bad first impression' as a priviliged, white person who's never faced any hurdles in her life, I rushed into telling stories about all the street harassment I had experienced during my stay in Bangladesh - which, as a Muslim country - you can only imagine how it was for a blonde, blue-eyed white girl roaming the streets without concealing every part of my body so guys didn't have to be tempted into raping me (yes, it was really, really bad).


Although this was all true, I still felt afterward that I had avoided the question a little bit, or at least taken it in a slightly different direction, in lack of experiences to draw from. Fast-forward 6 months till today, and oh my, I have some real good stories for you...

A typical Ugandan tabloid headline

First of all, what is up with headlines like this? Seriously, everything does not have to be reduced to race, and this does not even portray Ugandans themselves in a good light. 'New bad black', referring to yet another delinquent black person - because we all know black people are more prone to delinquent behavior than whites - conning a naive white person, or 'muzungu', as white people are often referred to as. Headlines like this only serve to amplify the stereotypes of white people and black people, and creates an artificial divide between people. After all, that's how wars and genocides get started, have we learned nothing?

Does this ring any bell, anyone?

To be honest, I had no idea how it felt to be discriminated against based on my skin color before moving to Uganda (sorry Ugandans, it doesn't go for all of you!). Obviously I wasn't completely unfamiliar with the subject, growing up I was told not to differentiate between people based on physical appearances and treat everyone equally, and in school we learned about both slavery and the Civil Rights Movement; and what all the messages had in common was how horribly 'the white man' had treated black people throughout history, and that it is something we must all carry with us and still today pay dues for - no matter if this was carried out by our ancestors, or your country didn't even have colonies in Africa - through e.g. affirmative action programs in colleges (which I by the way support, for other reasons). What I was never told, however, was how to react to racism towards myself. It was always 'us' mistreating 'them', never they other way around. I was never told the other side of the story.

The leading newspaper in Uganda
Imagine for a second the front page of any leading Western newspaper with this front page - SCANDALOUS, is what first comes to my mind. Not to mention extremely racist. Growing up in Norway and living in Berkeley, California, I've witnessed a fair share of 'racism debates' in the media, which, save for Fox News and some parts of the US, in Norway at least have centered around whether or not immigrants should be granted the same welfare priviliges as us, etc. While there are differing opinions on that matter - everyone cautious not to say anything that can be interpreted as even the tiniest bit racist - the rule in Uganda seems to be anything goes. I mean, come on, look at that newspaper, does it get any more xenophobic than that?

Baby Spice has a good point

Newspapers aside, the worst part is how 'muzungus' are being treated here. Firstly, just having a widely accepted and commonly used term like that really bothers me. Being constantly referred to and denominated by the color of your skin is something nobody deserves to experience, and ironically enough reminds me of a system on this continent that was abolished a while ago. Of course the kids running up to you calling: "Muzungu, how are you?"can't bear the blame for it all, but honestly, if I ran up to every black person I saw in my hometown calling: "Hey black person, how are you?", my parents would most definitely reconsider their parenting skills. Sure, the kids are cute enough, they are not the problem, but am I obligated to let them hold my hand, touch my hair and smile everytime they run up to me, even though I am not comfortable, and also a bit tired of doing that? The argument: "Oh, but they are just curious, they've never seen a white person before", is starting to feel alot like the: "You should take it as a compliment" argument, especially since it is not only kids who call you 'muzungu', it is literally EVERYONE - from the boda driver, to the shop keeper, to the creepy guy on the street, who occasionally whisper "Hey, girl..." instead.

Julia Stiles knows what it feels like

I guess I must have been living in quite the bubble back home, where both sexism and racism where terms I associated with the past. It's been quite the wake up call, living in Dhaka last fall and Kampala this spring, with street harrassment and racist remarks becoming 'the new normal'. A female colleague of mine, who's worked quite a bit abroad, compared the encounter with these new cultures as Alice in Wonderland's experience when she goes through the mirror and everything is backwards from what she is used to (yes, I realize that is a bit racist too).

A portion of Meg's attitude wouldn't hurt

After spending 3 months in Africa, I have become used to paying a different price than everyone else because of my skin color (all 'muzungus' are rich, you see), I've sat through comments like: "Oh but you see this is Africa, in Africa we do it like this. You wouldn't possibly understand", and "Yeah this is a typical 'muzungu' place" (referring to a nice restaurant or coffee shop), "I have a muzungu friend, you guys should meet!", "This place is owned by a muzungu, don't know where he is from though", and maybe worst of all, coming from one of our colleagues "Yes, I used to hate white people when I grew up. I didn't know anything about them". And don't even get me started on our aid policies, 'permissive/promiscous' and atheist cultures...

Maybe not giving a damn would be easier sometimes
Moreover, this disguised hatred or microaggressions towards white people seem to be something inherent in the African culture too. I never experienced anything like it in Asia, or Latin-America for that sake. In Bangladesh they would sometimes call us 'foreigner', but never by our skin color. And the kids would not dare running up to us and touch us, as that would be considered very rude. Suffice it to say, after now almost a year living in two different developing countries, it will be nice to come back home, and be recognized for who I am, called by my name - not my gender or skin color, and most of all, not be called out at all, but simply be treated equal, and mend in with everyone else. Is that too much to ask?

After growing up I finally understood what Mel C's character was all about

Check out this BuzzFeed article for more stories about every day microaggressions.

onsdag 23. april 2014

The Impenetrable Forest & the City of a Thousand Hills


 
'Top of Heaven', overlooking the volcanos in Rwanda and the DRC

This year’s Easter/spring break (whatever you want to call it) was a bit different than usual. For the first half of the break, we went to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, which is a national park in the South-West of Uganda, bordering to Rwanda and the Congo. There we stayed in a typical safari lodge on top of a hill, with a view of the forest and the surrounding communities. Because it is rainy season, it is also low season for tourism, so the first night we were actually the only guests in the lodge. There was also no power since the generator was out of gas, so it was pitch black when we arrived, save for the fire they made and the oil lamps we were given (perfect horror movie plot, right?). To add on to that we also had no cell phone reception – dun, dun, dun…


The park is known for being the home of the mountain gorillas, which you can only see in that area. The permits to trek them is a couple of hundred dollars though, so we decided to just hike in the area, which was really beautiful in itself!

The community people burning the grass to clear the space for their crops

The Batwa pygmies

After a few days in the wild with cold showers and rice and beans for almost every meal, we headed for Kigali, the capitol of neighboring Rwanda. Coming from the chilled, misty mountains of Bwindi to Kigali was really the best 'Easter egg' I could wish for. We stayed at a typical backpackers hostel (with wi-fi!) in the Embassy area of the city, where we also met up with some of our friends who had travelled directly there. 

Kigali - 'the City of a Thousand Hills'

From what we observed in our short stay, Rwanda seems to be worlds apart from its neighboring countries. It is a bit unfair that what people associate with Rwanda is the 1994 genocide, when the country is so much more than that (obviously). Kigali, with its nicely paved roads, clean sidewalks, and lush green areas resembles a Western city almost more than an African. It is said that after the genocide the government practically rebuilt the whole city, resulting in it looking more developed than its African counterparts. Not that Kampala is bad, it is actually a very nice (or at least, some parts of it), with the green hills surrounding the city. But after being to Kigali it is obvious that the government put more money into city planning than Museveni has done. 

On the open road

On the bus, for the first time in 3 months!

Apart from enjoying strolling down the streets and taking actual busses (omg!), we visited the Genocide Memorial Centre, two of the churches where Tutsis seeking refugee were slaughtered, the Belgian Monument, where the ten Belgian peacekeepers were assasinated, and the Hotel Des Milles Collines, the hotel from the movie Hotel Rwanda. It was very interesting to see all the historical sites, but also very emotional. Suffice it to say, we were pretty tired when we arrived back in Kampala after a 12 hour bumpy ride. 

Flowers on the tombs in the Nyamata Church
The Belgian Monument - 10 pillars to represent the ten pecekeepers


 
The real 'Hotel Rwanda'



fredag 11. april 2014

You know you're a 'muzungu' when...

'Muzungu'= white person, European person, rich person... (because these are all synonyms, obviously). #whitepeopleproblems

1. You walk into the slum, and everybody's eyes are instantly upon you.

Leave me alone, can't you see I'm busy?

2. Being called 'muzungu' by literally everyone on the street is your every day life.

You know, I have a name, right?

3. ...And your closet mostly consists of those baggy pants to the left.

4. You are just as surprised everytime the skies open and the rain starts to pour, even though you are the only one left on the street.

It's like they're born with a fifth sense, or something

5. And you are used to getting a different price than every one else.  

It's called 'muzungu price', my friend.

6. Headlines like these are so common you don't even raise an eyebrow anymore.

Really, really??

7. 'Sunburned' has gotten a whole new meaning for you.

8.You refer to the food the locals eat as 'street food', and associate it with an upset stomach.



9. You are the only one hopelessly sticking to polite phrases like 'thank you', 'excuse me' and 'please'. (Just give it up).

10. You are the only one standing at the zebra crossing (if there is one), waiting for the cars to stop.

11. When you're out and try to copy the dance style of the locals you look like this.



12. You have this weird, unspoken bond with other muzungus, which more than often materizalizes in awkward staring at the grocery store.

.


13. Every time you cough you're convinced you have either tuberculosis, malaria, HIV, or some other tropical disease.

Better take that profylax.

14. You think you'll die every time you take public transport.

Watch your toes.

15. Your family and friends back home try to convince you that you'll either get mugged, raped or killed if you walk alone after dark (check all that applies).



16. You have started to use sign language and big arm gestures to get your point across.

17. The smell of mosquito spray mixed with sweat completely overpowers your deodorant.

Why does life have to be so hard?

18. You have stopped wearing make-up well aware that you'll look like hell by the time you reach the office anyway.

Hey guys,  it's me!

19. You start thinking of yourself and other white people as muzungus - because EVERYTHING is racial. 

Can I stand here...?

20. And lastly, not to forget: The constant feeling of guilt for being so privileged...